Council celebrates Matariki by cooking traditional hangi – in the ground

Pulling up a Hangi for Matariki at Epsom Girls Grammar School. Photo / Jason Oxenham

As the country starts to embrace Matariki, the Māori New Year, Auckland Council has volunteered to get among the process of traditional hangi – cooking it in the ground.

Led by Mātua Rihari (Ngāti Whātua, Ngāpuhi, Te Rarawa, Hauraki), the tradition is said to be almost endangered to urban marae, but knowledge that is important to pass on.

It’s an indigenous cooking method of Aotearoa, and the way Māori have cooked for generations.

This year, Auckland iwi Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei is hosting Matariki, which has enabled the local council to commit to learning about what it means, ahead of celebrating it as an official holiday next year.

Getting among the preparation of food – and enjoying the food – was definitely an option.

Mātua Richard Nahi (far right) issuing instructions as the hangi is pulled up at Epsom Girls Grammar School. Photo / Jason Oxenham

The process involved up to 30 staff members and other volunteers who prepared the kai.

The burning or cooking process usually takes between three to three and a half hours. This method is said to heat the rocks up to 600C.

It was pulled out around 9.30am, ready to enjoy.

“This method has died in many areas, particularly urban marae. We don’t realise what urban marae are going through.”

“Some people don’t get the opportunity to do it often and we’re finding that there are many who haven’t had the experience.”

Otene Reweti (left) at work getting the hangi ready. Photo / Jason Oxenham

Mātua Rihari says it’s a physically demanding job and that “the old way is considered to be a lot of work”.

He’s been doing it for 40 years and says it’s not knowledge you can acquire overnight.

“I’ve taught many people. I can’t help it, you know? Especially family.”

But the preparation of the food makes it all worth it.

“It’s special because it brings people together in acknowledgement to Matariki and what it stands for. It’s about togetherness, enjoying kai together, recognising each of the stars and what it means as well.”

Matariki not only marks the Māori New Year but it’s also a chance to enjoy the company of others and enjoying your favourite food.

The preparation of a traditional hangi also gives people an understanding of how to work with the environment, a critical part of Matariki and te ao Māori.

Despite the rainy weather the outcome turned out “ka pai”. Photo / Jason Oxenham

“It’s awesome that Matariki is being acknowledged and celebrated. It’s taken off. Next year we’ll fully acknowledge the opportunity to celebrate it throughout the country.”

Mātua Rihari has worked with top school Epsom Girls’ Grammar School for a number of years as their kaumātua and was asked if he’d be interested in leading this event for Auckland Council.

Despite the rainy weather they were greeted with, the outcome turned out “ka pai”.